Day 31 - Shiretoko campground to Rausushizentomidorinomura Camping Ground - 45kms
I was again up nice and early. After I had gotten my breakfast from the local convenience store I was riding by 6am. The weather was just perfect for a nice climb up the pass. A gentle breeze and plenty of blue sky.
The climb continued for 15kms. The scenery was pretty good, which always helps with a climb. When I got to the top of Shiretoko Pass I had a great view across the mountain range and also down to the ocean on the eastern side. I had a pretty quick descent down to Rausu. But about 4kms before town I stopped at the onsen. This onsen is free and right next to the road. Opposite is a nice campground. But as it was only 8:30am I just made use of the onsen. Had the whole place to myself. Certainly one of my favourite ones now. After my soak I continued down to Rausu. Rausu is a fishing town. It also has boat tours which go looking for Orcas. I've always wanted to see a Orca. So I booked myself on a 1pm trip. For the remainder of the morning I looked around town and had some lunch. The tour was great. We didn't have to go far off shore to find the Orcas. There were around seven or eight in the pod. A mixture of adults and a couple of calfs. It was just great watching these whales surface in a group and then disappear again. We were out for a good couple of hours. We returned to harbour just after 3pm. I rode down to a campsite about 15kms south of town. The campsite is just off the main road and has a nice view out to sea and also of the mountains behind. It was only ¥300 and I had the place all to myself. Everything is well maintained and there is also easy access to electricity. As for some reason, the last few campsites in this region don't like you using their electricity. |
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Day 32 - Rausushizentomidorinomura Camping Ground to Betsukai camp ground - 79kms
Being on the east coast of Hokkaido I got to enjoy my first sunrise from my tent. A very pleasant start to the day. As I was up and ready to go nice and early today, I was riding by just after 5am.
I continued heading south down the coast. The mountains I had been enjoying for the last few days gave way to more open pastoral land. The day was getting pretty warm and I checked the forecast for the rest of the day. Looks like it is going to be hot. As I'm not in a rush I decided to alter my route slightly and headed inland to Betsukai. As it has a campground with an onsen and shops near by. Very pleased I changed route, as I got to the campground before 12pm and it was stinking hot. The campground was really well maintained and the couple which were running it were so friendly and helpful. I found a nice spot under a few trees and enjoyed a resting afternoon. When it did cool off I headed over to the local onsen. Nice modern onsen this one. So many I've been to feel very dated. Tomorrow I'll be heading to the most eastern point in Japan. |
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Day 33 - Betsukai to Cape Nosappu - 82kms
I still had great weather for the ride today. Should be a few degrees cooler than yesterday. Roads were pretty quiet throughout the day. Perhaps it was due to it being Sunday?
I headed first to the town of Nemuro. It is a reasonable size town, being the last major settlement this far east in Japan. I had a look around the main park which had these old brick stacks. After I found a really nice supermarket, not far from the train station. So I was able to grab a few nice meals for lunch and dinner. I rode out to Cape Nosappu, which is just over 20kms from Nemuro. Once more I was passing a lot of pastoral land and a couple of small fishing villages. I stopped at a viewing point for some wild flowers, which had some ponies wandering through them. I got to the cape at 3:30pm. Currently Cape Nosappu is the most easterly point in Japan. But at the end of the 2nd World War, Russia seized four islands from Japan which lie east of here. There are a number of exhibits and memorials regarding this and clearly Japan want these islands back. There is no official campground at the Cape. So I waited until later in the day before I setup my tent in the park nearby. As I really would like to get to see sunrise at the most easterly point of Japan. |
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