This morning I was away by 5:30am. I wanted to get the climb done before it got to warm. As it was going to be a nice sunny day. And what a nice climb it was. Great views of the mountains and when I got to the summit of Mikuni Pass I found the cafe was just opening they made the perfect espresso. Couldn't even get an espresso in Sapporo!
After enjoying my surprise coffee stop, I began the descent down. Oh what fun. Roads were smooth and quiet with nice sweeping corners. The drop down lasted a good 10km.
Once the road levelled out I saw these signs with an old steam train on it. Was not sure what they meant. So I stopped at one and had a short walk. It took me to the shores of the lake. On the other side was the remains of an old railway bridge. It was built approximately 80 years ago. It hass long since been abandoned. Looks like a relic from the Romans!
Another surprise along the route I was following was another steam train sign. I stopped once more. This time they have laid about 500 metres of narrow gauge track where you can ride a bike pushing a carriage. Me liking trains and bikes I had to do this! It was such a blast.
The day was starting to warm up. I continued to Ashoro. Further than I had planned. But as I had a good tailwind for the last 30km and left early I got here by 2:30pm. The campground is about 1.5km from town up a hill. So I stopped at the campground first. When I arrived there was a big kids party happening. The birthday boy was blindfolded and had to smash open a watermelon. Looked like lots of fun. One of the guests gave me a beer to celebrate. Very kind.
Later I had a walk down the hill for dinner. The town seems quite big but nothing special. Today, once again, has been just fantastic. I'm happy I did the extra few kilometres, as when I was getting set for sleep it began to rain.
Day 26 - Ashoro to Akanko Spa - 56kms
It was a very humid night last night and this morning was quite misty. The mist did lift by 6:30am so it didn't delay my ride. Today will be a shortish ride to Akanko Spa.
I rode past a number of farms before the road began to climb and I was back in the forests. I still had the tailwind from yesterday, but it was still humid and was getting warm. I arrived at Akanko Spa before 11am.
Akanko Spa to a small town located next to a lake which is within a volcano. Hence there are a number of hot springs here. I went straight to the campsite, which for a change is just across the road from the town. I set everything and had a walk to get some lunch.
As I was enjoying lunch I heard this massive thunder clap and then it poured. I was so happy to have got to town early, as it would not had been fun riding in that today. After lunch I headed across to natural history museum. Which had a lot of local flora and fauna on display. When I left the museum the rain had stopped. I did the nature walk next door which took you to the lake and the mud pools. The pools really smelt of rotten eggs. Reminded me of when I was in Rotorua.
There are a number of onsens in town. The lady at the campground suggested the one at the local leisure centre. It is small and cheap but was really nice and peaceful, as it was just myself and one other person.
After I had dinner at a local Ainu restaurant. The Ainu are the indigenous people. There have a number of shops, mainly geared towards the tourists selling numerous things made out of wood. Dinner is a dish called Yasei-don. The main ingredient is local deer. Took a while coming, but it was certainly worth it. The meat was so tender.
Day 27 - Akanko Spa to Lake Kussharo - 95kms
I had another walk near the lake before leaving today. It was still cloudy but nice. I stopped at a couple of lookouts as I climbed out of town. I had a long descent into Teshikaga. The town was a reasonable size and was a good place to stop for second breakfast.
After I was fed (again) I had my second climb for the day. This climb would take me to Lake Mashu. The climb, at times, was pretty steep. But when I got to the view of the lake it was so worth it. The water was so blue. I had a great view across the lake with the jagged edges giving a perfect backdrop
I continued climbing for a couple more kilometres to the lookout at the other side of the lake. Again the views were just great. I noticed I had left Chad, my ranger bear who has been with me on this trip, at the previous lookout. I knew exactly where I had left him. So off I went back down to the first lookout, found him exactly where I had left him and then repeated the climb. At least I got to enjoy the views a second time!
After, I began my final big descent for the day. I think it was steeper coming down this side. There were plenty of hairpin bends. About midway down I could see the side Mount Iō. Parts of it was bare, which was in contrast to the lush greener everywhere else. When I go closer I could see why. There were these very accessible thermal vents. They were a vivid green colour. The landscape felt so alien.
I continued following the road around Lake Kussharo. There were numerous thermal rivers feeding into the lake. On the shores of the lake you could make your own thermal foot pool! The lake also has its own version of the Loch Ness Monster. Whilst I was taking a picture of the lake a couple of locals were looking at my bike. They appeared to be most impressed by it. I think they were brothers and both looked at least 70 years of age.
I finally headed to the campsite at at Wakoto Peninsula. When I arrived I noticed Rafael had also turned up. We have been crossing paths every few days but have gone very different routes to get here. It was nice to see a familiar face. The campground is on the shores of the lake. Perfect location. There is also a free mixed sex onsen nearby, which I got to enjoy of course!
Today, besides forgetting Chad, as been another fanatic riding day. Outstanding scenery and great roads to ride. Just fantastic.